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Sankhu to Vajra Jogini
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Sankhu 15 Km east of kathmandu emerges red
as a result of its position of on the ancient
trade route that linked India and Tibet. A
permanent settlement first established here
during the lichhavais times.
Today Sankhu typifies rural life in Kathmandu
Valley. An agglomeration of old Newari houses,
their structural woodwork often dilapidated
whilst simultaneously displaying the fine
carving which seem to have been taken so much
granted in traditional Newari architecture .The
village is also surrounded by fertile
agricultural land the basis of villages
existence. If you are here either or harvesting
or sowing it's worth taking time to watch as all
those who physically fit to plant or reap.
A
Large and colorfully decorated arched gateway
marks the village limits. There are rarely shops
selling cold drinks but there are traditional
restaurants. From Sankhu you can head to Vajra
Jogini.
jogni generally calls Yogini too.
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Vajra Jogini Temple |
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This
delightful three storied pagoda Temple
built by king Prakash Malla who is
responsible for many of the building and
monuments standing Kathmanudu's Durbar
Square is situated some 2 KM north of Sankhu
and command magnificent views of valley. The
uppermost roof is said to be of gold while
two lower roofs are copper gilded. The
struts of three roofs are lavishly carved
with depiction of various deities and
mythchical animal figures. The main entrance
of richly engraved cooper is guarded by two
large and bright color lions. The site has
long been associated with religion and
although current Temple structure dates from
17th century. It's widely
believed that the location was used as place
of worship even earlier times. The deity
which is fearsome Shakti aspect which
normally remains out of sight derives from
Tantric tradition and as part of local
festival is carried in an annual journey to
Sankhu on April. |
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Kali
Sacrifice |
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The
goddess Kali {lit black} Described in
the Mahabharata as born of Anger……..The
cruel daughter of the ocean of blood, The
drinker of the blood is the terrifying form
of Durga the consort of Shiva one of
the trinity of "all powerful" Hindu gods.
Kali is perhaps the best known of all the
Tantric Shakti divinities and is seen as
representing or controlling, Destruction and
death in the ending cycle of fire. Often
known affectionately as Ma {Mother} kali by
devotees for her other protective qualities.
Her peroration is the past occasionally
involved human sacrifice, in modern era it
continues to include ,inter alia ,animal
sacrifice. This practices which emerged as a
prominent features of Hindu Worship during
the late Vedic period {C 900-500 BC } Is
seen as continuing the process of creation
by repeating the first great sacrifice in
which the world was created .There are
specific rites and rituals associated with
it and the value of the sacrifice depended
upon their correct performance by priest.
Kali is usually their portrayed with
multiple arms ,a protruding tongue
wearing a garland of skulls and
treading on the prostrate figure of Shiva.
Around the temple is a variety of religious
icons and to the west another smaller
wooden temple with some great fine wood
carving which is dedicated to one of
Buddhist Taras. |
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Changu Narayan and
Bhaktapur
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This
is an attractive way to get to Bhaktapur
and good alternative to taking the bus or
following the all the way..From the Channgu
Narayan temple it is a 6 km walk to
Bhaktapur.After you cross the ridge it's
downhill all the way through the village
Pikhel and alongside the small Khasyang and
Khusyung river There you will be at
the Bhakapur.The Bhaka pur does mean city of
devotee. Bhakta means devotee and pur means
city. |
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Changu Narayan Temple |
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The
ancient Hindu Temple of Changu Narayan ranks as
one of the finest and most dramatic of all sites
in the valley and is a UNSECO designated World
Heritage Site. Perched on the Dolagiri hill some
125 km above the valley floor and 13 east of
Kathmandu .It has superb views across the
valley. It's origins are widely believed to be
date back to the 5the century AD. Some sources
suggest an earlier beginning and that it
was built by King Hari Dutta Varma in 325
A.D.While other say the temple was built on
erstwhile animist place of worship. Before the
18th century unification of Nepal. it
was part of the independent Malla Kingdom
of Bhaktapur. The temple is acknowledged to be
the oldest extant of example of the Nepalese
style of pagoda architecture.
The
main temple is 2-storeyed building standing
slightly off center in rectangular courtyard
which contains two smaller temples and numerous
statues. The shire contain a gold image of
Vishnu as Narayan which is said to date from 7th
century. Each of the four doors is
ornately decorated. The north door is
guarded by a pair of winded lions the east door
by griffins the south door by elephants and west
door by lions. The Torana and lavishly engraved
brass work surrounding the main west door
is particularly intricacy and detail. Each of
the roof struts both floors is a masterpieces of
Newari woodcarving .
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Thimi |
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Thimi is the first town you come to after
leaving Kathmandu some 3 km before and although
often overlooked it is actually the fourth
largest in the valley. It's renowned for its
craftsmanship especially pottery and paper Mache
masks. Indeed it's name is a derivation of the
Newari for "Capable people" The majority of the
masks sold in Kathmandu are produced here.
though some are also used in festivals.
The
architecture is very much Newari in character
but the town is rather round down and there are
few building of tourist interest. The balkumari
Mandir in the square at the southern end of town
is a 16th century structure and is
dedicated to kumari in her child form but
the temple has no "Living Goddess" A main road
runs through thimi and lind Arniko highway to
the south with minor road running from airport
to Bhaktapur to north.Just north of this smaller
road lies the three storoyed Ganesh mandir
which you can reach via stone stairway.less than
1 km Manohora Khola is the the village Bode.with
its 16th century Mahalakshami Mandir.
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Walk 1 to Banepa |
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As
part of a day trip you can walk the 4km from
Dhulikhel down to Banepa from where you can
catch bus back to kathmandu. Leave Dulikhel
among the along the main road the goes
northwest through the village. When you get
junction at the end of the village turn
left{west}.Continue all the way down this
attractive trail as it cuts through the
wooded slopes an leads into Banepa where the
bust stop is on the main road near the
statue of king Thrivuvan.The following walks
to Panauti and Namobuddha can also be
combined . |
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Walk 2 to Panauti
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Leave
Dhulikhel along the road leading southwest
from near by lodge. The trail continues downhill
and you walk through some delightful rural
scenery before meeting the road between Banepa
and Panuati some 3 km form Dhulikhel.The
road follows the Punyamata khola rover for
3 km into Panuati.
The
village is typically Newari in character and has
several examples of finely carved windows.its
location at the confluence of punyamati khola
and Roshi khola bestows tis with special
sancitity.Legend has it that the Buddha in a
previous incarnation gave his life for hungry
tigress. A Monument to this sacrifice was built
at Nomobuddha .To the southwest of the village
is one of Nepal's oldest Hindu temples, the
three-storied Indreshwar Mahadev Mandir.beilived
to date from the 13th century.The
temple has some magnificent woodcarvings
and in contrast to later composite
caryatid. the roof strut figures are
each carved from single length of wood.Two
other temples the Krishna Mandir and Brahmanyan
Mandir stand at the northeast endof of the
village.
There are several option to go on from Pauati.To
return to kathmandu of Dhulikhel you can either
take the bus or walk the 6km north to
Banepa from where there are regular local buses
in both direction .You can walk from here to
Namobuddha along an attractive though indirect
trail which leaves Panuati to the east.
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Walk 3 to Namobuddha
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There
are two ways to get from Dhulikhel to
Namobuddha .You can walk both as an all day
circuit the shorter route 9 km leaves
Dhulikhel for the Kali Mandir. After the
temple the trail descends into the Kavre
Valley and past the village of Kavre
Banjyang 4km from Dhulikhel. You can
either walk along the memorable road
that continues south or along one of the
path at the side. After another 3 km through
pine forest you reached the Tamang village
of Pulbhari. |
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Namobuddha |
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Namobuddha is one of Nepal holies Buddhist
sites and commemorated the supreme
compassion of the Buddha in his legendary
self-sacrifice to a starving tigress
at Panuati. The origins of the hilltop site
are unknown ,though some sources suggest
that architectural style is indicative of
construction in 17th or 18th
century .It's dominated by a large Stupa
to which many prayer flags a dn banners are
attached. It is surrounded by many Chaityas,
bells. prayer bells, and other Buddhist
accoutrements .To one is a small Buddha. A
little way beyond is more recent monastery
and meditation centre with more
representatives of the compassionate Buddha.
Beneath near tree a plaque illustrate the
Buddha and tigress. The main festival of the
year takes palace in March when pilgrims
especially Mahayana Buddhist come to offer
prayer. |
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Khokana and Bungmati |
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This
is traditional agricultural community. It has no
featured prominently on tourist itineraries but
during harvest it's really comes alive as sheaf
loads of crops are windowed grain spread
across cobbled streets to dry in board
though neatly defined rectangles .The
surrounding fields are also used to grow mustard
and village has been a traditional center for
the production of mustard oil pungent and
distinctly flavored ingredient used
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Bagh Bhairab Mandir |
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In
the centre of town, just north of the main
square, this is Kirtipur's best known
temple. Bagh means tiger and the clay image
of Bhairab is shown with the mask of a
tiger, which underlines the deity's
ferocious character. This image had no
tongue, a deliberate absence derived from
the story of a Kirtipur boy who once made a
clay model of tiger and upon returning
from the wood to fetch a leaf for the
tongue, discovered that his model has come
to life. The site has been used as a
place of worship for as long as Kirtipur has
existed, though the three-strayed temple was
built much later. Its principal attractions
are the swords and shields which adorn the
temple, fascinating vestiges of the battle
in which Kirtipur fell to Prithvi Narayan
shah. The Bagh Bhairab festival takes place
in Autumn when the image is carried on
palanquin through the village and down to
the river. Sacrifices are offered to Bhairab
on Tuesday and Saturday. |
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The Caste System |
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Socially, the most important contribution of the
Vedic age was the development of the 4-stage
caste system. (The word 'caste' was given by the
Portugese in the 15th century AD means 'breed'
or 'race'.)The Rig Veda records how the original
single caste, the Hamsa, was divided as a result
of the continuing moral decline of man
through ages. In descending hierarchical order,
the Brahmins represent the unsullied Hamsa and
were seen as coming from the mouth of brahma
while the kshatriyas are the warrior class
coming from Brahma's arms, the Vaishyas the
mercantile and professional class coming from
Brahma's thighs, and the Shudras the working
class who came from Brahma's feet. A fifth class
is considered to be outside the caste system,
and is known variously as outcastes,
untouchables, panchama and harijans.
"Untouchable" refers to ritual pollution
suffered upon contact by a caste member, while 'Panchama'
means 'fifth'. The term 'Harijan' was first
coined by Gandhi in the early 1930s and means '
a person of Hari(Vishnu)', or 'a child of god'.
They were left with the jobs which were regarded
as impure, usually associated with the dead
(animal or human) or with excrement.
Those of the top three castes are considered to
be dvija or 'twice born', a reference to the
additional 'spiritual birth' that takes place
with ceremony of the 'sacred thread'. The exact
origins of the system are unclear. Some theories
maintain that it was initially based on the
obvious criterion of skin Colour, or Varna (the
Aryans were fair skinned), while others point to
differences in religious practice and traditions
among communities, or simply to a monitorial
division of society by occupation . There are,
in addition, several thousand
sub-castes-including over 1800 subdivisions of
Brahmins. In theory, interaction between members
of different castes is strictly regulated. There
should be no intermarriage, for example,
nor should those of one caste share food
approach is often adopted: pollution may be
ritually cleansed and some communities have a
more liberal interpretation of marriage rules.
Even though , in modern Nepal, the strength of
caste hierarchy was officially replaced by the
acknowledgement of equality of all people before
the law in the 1967 Constitution of Nepal, the
caste system itself was not actually abolished
and continues to play a central role in the
structure and organization of Nepali society.
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